Everyone eats, so everyone is a food critic. That's why I'm always interested in letters from readers and in "reader surveys," whether it's the latest edition of the Zagat guide or "best of" listings in magazines. It's a way to take the pulse of what state residents are eating.

Still, I almost drove my car off the road when I saw a sign proclaiming "best new restaurant in Middlesex County" outside what is basically a take-out shack in Westbrook.

It's called Edd's Place. And while I respectfully disagree with Connecticut magazine readers on its being the best new restaurant in Middlesex County, it is still pretty darn good.

Edd's wins approval with a surprisingly extensive menu, good food and very low prices. The place is humble, but the owners clearly take pride in it. Although the sign describes it as "cuisine to go," and people do zip in to pick up dinner from an ever-changing list of specials, you can also eat in. Place your order at the counter, pay by cash or check, and the staff brings the food out to you. You can eat under umbrellas on a patio or dine in a screened-in gazebo overlooking a salt marsh. Every time I've been there, a cool breeze has been gently blowing. Birds flit from tree to tree, no doubt drawn by the birdhouses erected here and there around the property.

This is the kind of place we all need right now. A relaxed, no-nonsense eatery where you can kick back with the kids and zone out after a day at the beach. The hours lend itself to this; most days Edd's is closed by 6 p.m.

Let's talk about the food. First thing you want to do is scan the specials boards posted over the counter and outside the door. Dinner specials are posted by 3:30 p.m. each day. What you read may or may not match what you find in the glass display case. Don't worry, just point and ask. One time a beautifully roasted pork loin flecked with herbs preens proudly in the case; another time there's a huge platter of fried chicken and cold steamed lobsters. A small bowl of sautéed pea pods and other vegetables stand ready for Edd's version of General Tso's Chicken.

Yet Edd's does the basics well. The lobster bisque, served up in a bountiful 12-ounce cup, is creamy, rich and flecked with lobster meat; it sports a deep lobster flavor. I'm less enamored with the New England-style clam chowder, but it's thick and has a pleasant marine taste.

Deep-fried vegetarian egg rolls and spring rolls shine. I love the crispy golden skins stuffed with an assortment of vegetables that maintain their distinct shapes and flavors. Both come with a thick, sweetish, soy-based dipping sauce.

I grew up eating Hummel hot dogs and had, frankly, gotten rather jaded about them. Then I took a bite of one cooked by Edd's. Pure joy revisited. The dog had a buttery snap, was cooked through but not toughened. The roll was toasted and the frank was covered with top-notch sauerkraut with so much texture and flavor that it just had to be homemade. The cheeseburger served on a hard roll is also basic goodness. The 6-ounce patty of well-cooked Black Angus beef has a lovely buoyancy and juiciness you usually find only in rare burgers.

Edd's "famous" hot buttered lobster roll is an ample serving of picked-out lobster. The meat is hot, buttery and lobstery. The roll comes toasted in the traditional manner. There's a thin layer of iceberg lettuce buried deep down in the roll under the lobster. It provides a pleasant crunch.

There are plenty of hot and cold grinders on the menu, from the expected salami and cheese to barbecued pork with grilled onions. Vegetarians will adore the grilled vegetables lightly coated with cheese. Eggplant and summer squash are served up in great big chunks amid sheets of roasted red pepper and melted cheese.

Try the chicken salad sandwich. The meat is silky smooth, nicely poached and laced with just the right amount of mayonnaise. Order the BLT and that's exactly what you get: bacon, lettuce and tomato on your choice of white, rye or wheat bread.

Panini sandwiches are also offered. These sandwiches, grilled with your choice of focaccia or sourdough bread, are huge - one makes for a dinner-sized entrée. The focaccia is grilled until crisp, so it breaks off with a resounding snap as you bite down. I savor a roast beef version, with thin slices of rosy meat coupled with cheese and tomato. Fitted in there somehow is a bed of mixed greens and your choice of mayonnaise, mustard or balsamic dressing.

Make sure to save room for "extra" fare. The French fries are piping hot and golden, and sport a resounding snap. One night, the pasta salad is dressed with green peas and tuna salad. It's cool and refreshing. The coleslaw is excellent, too.

The menu credits the pies, the cakes and the cheesecake to "Mom." Well, she must be something. The key lime pie is a bit too custardy for my Miami aunt, but she gives it a thumbs-up for taste. I love the Boston cream pie with its inky chocolate base and the banana cream pie with its layer of ripe banana under a pile of whipped topping. The blueberry pie stuffed with tiny berries. The huge lemon cupcake topped with lemon frosting and chopped walnuts.

Beverages at Edd's are limited to bottled waters, sodas and juices. It's appropriate given the surroundings. The view, the breeze and the good food combine to give you a natural lift.



Hours: Open daily, Mon.-Thurs., 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-4 p.m.


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Extras:

Critic's Rating Cuisine Family/Kids, American/Classic, Sandwich Meals Served Lunch, Dinner Payment Method Cash Only, Checks Price Range Inexpensive Services Carry Out Spirits BYOB Wheelchair Access (limited, rest room is not accessible)