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New Mill Restaurant
493 South End Road
Southington
860-620-0300

By MARY ELLEN FILLO

Hartford Courant

Published: 11/17/2005

Once upon a time, back in the 1930s, a waterside restaurant called the Old Mill opened in the Plantsville section of Southington, quickly becoming the place to go for some local socializing and a decent meal.

Six decades later on the other side of town, another Southington eatery, Nardi's, opened, offering intimate fine dining that also attracted a dedicated following.

In 1993, the best of both came together when Tom Nardi of Nardi's purchased the Old Mill Restaurant and moved his operation there. The result? Fine food, soothing ambience and its continued reputation as a busy place where you are bound to run into someone you know.

On a recent visit, it was hard to believe it was a Sunday night. The parking lot was packed, and the dining rooms bustling in this charming building, originally built in 1737. Wide, uneven floorboards, several stone fireplaces, wagon wheels making up the half wall room-dividers, and booths that sported decades worth of romantic history via the carved initials that covered every inch of wood made the place homey, comfortable and inviting. Add outdoor landscaping that includes a working water wheel and a white bridge, and it was a scene that was all about "down home."

But don't let the country setting fool you, for the food was above and beyond, and reflected the fine dining tradition Tom Nardi established when he opened his first restaurant nearly 15 years ago.

For us, dinner started with a zingy shrimp tempura ($9) that was deep-fried to perfection and served with a spicy corn salsa that had a fellow diner asking for more. Italian bruschetta ($6.50), Nardi-style, featured a nice change-up with toasted Italian bread topped with eggplant, prosciutto and mozzarella cheese. A saucer-size stuffed Portobello mushroom ($7.50), perfectly char-grilled, layered with bel paese cheese and served in a demi-glace sauce, was quickly scarfed down.

Nardi's offers an array of entrees but advertises its veal dishes, homemade pastas and seafood items as its best.

Veal Saltimbocca ($18.95) lived up to its reputation. Tender medallions of fork-tender veal, sauteed with prosciutto and finished with mozzarella and Marsala wine, were melt-in-your-mouth perfect. Pork Milanese was a nice variation of the Italian veal standard, thanks to the caramelized onions and red currant demi-glace. A 16-ounce prime rib special ($13.95 on Sundays) was substantial, moist and tasty thanks to slow cooking and a side of raw horseradish.

There was little room left for dessert after such a feast, but a pastry cart full of homemade offerings - including creme brulee, triple-layer chocolate cake, carrot cake studded with juicy raisins and Nardi's apple pie - was more than we could resist.

Despite full dining rooms and a private party of 45 all going on at the same time, the staff was pleasant, accommodating and quick, getting dishes out as quickly as the kitchen had them ready. Besides dinner conversation, be prepared to spend some time looking at the 70-something-year-old menus from the original place, conspicuously hung at the end of each booth.

Hours: Tue.-Thu., 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Sun., 4 p.m.-9 p.m. Bar hours: Tue.-Fri., 3 p.m.-close Sat.-Sun., 4 p.m.-close

Extras:

Attractions Clubs, Historic Sites Bestsellers Lobster Savana, Gnocchi Pesto, Paglia e Fieno, Veal Saltimboca, Milanese of Veal e Carciofini. Clubs Nightclub Cuisine Italian Meals Served Lunch, Dinner Parking Payment Method American Express, Visa, MasterCard Price Range Moderate Reservations Strongly recommended on weekends. Services Private Parties Spirits Full Bar Website http://www.newmillrestaurant.net/ Wheelchair Access Entrance & restrooms are accessible.