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Cottage Restaurant & Cafe
427 Farmington Ave.
Plainville
860-793-8888

By MARYELLEN FILLO

The Hartford Courant

Published: 3/17/2005

Chef extraordinaire Patty Queen got me to do the impossible. I tried Brussels sprouts!

I couldn't resist. There they were, marble-size buds sharing a pool of delectable demi-glace with melt-in-your-mouth braised pot roast and roasted-garlic mashed potatoes. How could I say no?

That's what I love about the Cottage Restaurant in Plainville. It's a place that entices me to try foods that no other restaurant, nor person, including my mother, could ever talk me into.

Despite a somewhat intimidating menu that includes entrees such as grilled lamb polpettone, chouriço-crusted cod, soy-lacquered grilled wild Alaskan salmon, and andouille pork loin, be assured this is a place that you and your palate will feel comfortable.

"I don't like people who are snobs, or those who say, `What is a restaurant like this doing in Plainville?'" says the personable executive chef who grew up in nearby Southington. "When my brother and I decided to take a chance and open a restaurant, we wanted it to be in the area where we grew up," says Queen. "There is no reason why people who live in a regular town can't have really good food."

Nine years ago, the Cottage started as a hole-in-the-wall eatery that immediately had people a little confused about the extraordinary luncheons and dinners that looked more like art than food. Situated in a small storefront on Route 10, the Cottage opened with 15 tables. Within weeks, word got out about the fantastic food that was the exception rather than the rule, and soon patrons were waiting weeks to get a reservation. A few years ago, Queen moved a mile north on Route 10, revamping what had been an office building into her new professional digs. The calm, subdued atmosphere, which includes her mother as hostess and her brother as host, becomes elegant once the food is served.

A cranberry salad with mesclun greens is a good example of Queen's attention to detail and presentation. The symmetrical mound of greens is trimmed in poached pears, cranberries and roasted pecans. White chunks of goat cheese add to the colorful salad, laced with a vinaigrette dressing. .

My dining companion was as happy as I was, thanks to her pork entree, which was food for the eye and the stomach.

The ample main course consisted of two pork dishes that made a beautiful picture when served together on a white porcelain rectangular dish. Serving as the foundation was a slow-cooked, salted pork confit and St. Andrew cheese and spinach-stuffed crepe drizzled with a currant demi-glace. On top of that was a grilled pork tenderloin dressed with a juniper marinade. While it may sound like a lot of different flavors and textures, the combination co-existed as one big happy and very tasty family.

Dessert is a wonder on its own. A "sampler" dessert we shared included vanilla bean crème brulee; rich, creamy white chocolate pot de crème; chocolate mousse; and cookies fashioned to look like bits of stained glass, thanks to the creative use of dried fruit.

Kidding that, at 39, she is still single because of business demands, Queen is funny and warm.

"I do appreciate the accolades," she said. "And I feel very lucky to have my restaurant."

So do we.

The 411: Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m., and until 10 on Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. Bar and lounge on-site. Handicapped-accessible.

Major credit cards accepted. Lunch entrees begin at about $8. Dinner entrees begin at about $18.

Popular Dishes: Ye Olde Yankee Pot Roast, Oyster House Smoked Grilled Rib-Eye Steak,
Traditional Style Oysters Rockefeller, Grilled Wild Alaskan Salmon

Hours: Lunch Tue.-Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Tue.-Sat., 5 p.m.-9 p.m.

Extras:

Clubs Coffeehouse Cuisine Cajun/Creole, Coffeehouse, Cafe, Family/Kids Meals Served Lunch, Dinner Parking Payment Method Price Range Moderate Reservations Recommended Fri. and Sat. evenings. Services Catering, Private Parties, Carry Out Spirits Full Bar Website http://www.cottagerestaurantandcafe.com Wheelchair Access Entrance and restrooms are accessible.