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Saint's
1248 Queen St.
Southington
860-747-0566

By STEVE & LISA ALCAZARI

Hartford Advocate

Published: 12/9/2005

Maybe you're not the kind of person who gets worked up about a chili dog. It's okay, you're not alone (though you may be in the minority). But if you do find yourself feeling a little abnormally excited when the subject comes up, a trip to Saint's in Southington may be in order. But Saint's, where Lisa and I enjoyed a big lunch last week, does more than just dogs.

Saint's is a small informal family restaurant. It sits on a stretch of Route 10 where several of the nearby businesses don't appear to be exactly thriving (a nearby produce and seafood market looks out of commission and the blue barn that houses the Blue Parrot's exotic dancers is in need of a paint job), but Saint's doesn't seem to have any trouble keeping the regulars coming.

A neon sign in the front window shows a large hot dog with the name of the restaurant and a halo over it. The big sign on the street says proudly that it's one family with one restaurant. Started in 1967 by the St. Pierre family, Saint's is no big chain, and they make no pretensions to being one.

A few family-style portraits hang on the front wall. There are some Huskies posters near the narrower back section of the dining room, where bigger parties will also find some of the larger tables. Smaller fast-food-style booths line one side of the front wall, and there's a small counter near the cash register. While we gobbled down our hot dogs and slurped at our drinks, we saw one of the guys from behind the grill warmly greet several customers and he poked his head over in our direction to make sure everything was to our liking, which struck as a little more attention than one could expect at a burger joint.

We had come ready for hot dogs and fries, but the menu at Saint's offers some surprises. For instance, shepherd's pie was one of the specials when we stopped in. Not what you expect. Saint's also serves clam rolls, fried scallops, grinders, Philly cheese steak, and broasted chicken (broasting is essentially deep-frying under pressure).

I had decided to start with a chocolate milkshake. Few milkshakes are what you'd call mild, but the shake at Saint's was close -- not overpoweringly chocolaty and not undrinkably thick. If you pulled a mouthful of shake through the straw and sat back, the shake inside the straw would slowly fall. A too thick shake will stay put in the straw and a soupy thin one will just swish right back into the glass. This ended up being dessert, but it didn't really spoil my taste for what came next.

The chili dogs at Saint's deserve some respect. I'd put them in the running with any of the beloved dogs in the area -- Rosco's, Woody's, Capitol Lunch. A jumbo with meat sauce will run you $2.50. That's a like a 10-incher or so, served on a toasted bun. The sauce is dark, brown, thin and spicy, not sweet, with just a bit of ground beef. The dog itself had what enthusiasts might call a medium snap -- not too much resistance from the casing. Our waitress told us they serve Martin Rosol hot dogs, which are made in New Britain. For hot dog fanatics, the frankfurter domain is a crucial question. Whether a hot dog joint uses franks made by Grote and Weigel (produced in Bloomfield), Thumanns, Hummel or Sabrett, is a big deal to connoisseurs, and I got the feeling that our waitress was used to fielding questions about hot dog provenance.

I also tried a hamburger with grilled onions. The burgers at Saint's are a little thin, and I found that mine needed salting. I did like the fact that the layer of grilled onions was probably as thick as the burger. The fries were unremarkable.

My milkshake left me incapable of going in for dessert, but the banana blast, pistachio surprise and wild berry pie all had me reconsidering my position.

Not Just For Dog Lovers

By MARYELLEN FILLO

Hartford Courant

Published: 06/30/2005

It was the lowly hot dog and a secret recipe for chili sauce that first put Saint's, then a drive-in restaurant, on the map in 1967. For that was when Donald and Joan St. Pierre, longtime Plainville residents, bought the place, turning it into a Route 10 landmark and the place to get a really fine hot dog.

Today Saint's, now a full-fledged sit-down family restaurant, still delivers when it comes to its dogs. Only Martin Rosol dogs, made in New Britain, will do at this popular gathering place that attracts generations of "regulars."

Dedicated to using only top-quality ingredients, many of which are purchased at area stores, the almost foot-long seasoned hot dogs are grilled and served on "just right" toasted rolls. The meaty chili sauce packs a nice spicy punch.

Add mustard, relish and chopped onions, and have yourself a lip-smacking feast that is sure to satisfy that craving for a wiener.

But although its hot dogs remain tops - and my choice on most visits - there is much more on the menu, which has undergone a subtle transformation since the St. Pierres retired and turned the operation over to son John.

The hot dogs remain, as do homemade onion rings, broasted chicken (prepared in a special oven that makes it crispy but not greasy) and weekday specials such as Shepherd's Pie, macaroni and cheese and cube-steak dinners. More contemporary additions including club sandwiches, Caesar salads and veggie burgers now share the menu space.

Also a popular gathering spot for breakfast and lunch, Saint's has ratcheted up dinner offerings with reasonably priced Saturday-night specials that include pork loin and rib-eye steak.

A busy day, an assortment of eclectic tastes, and little ambition to change clothes or make reservations prompted our most recent visit. A quick drive to Saint's not only satisfied everyone's taste buds but also provided the kind of comfort and familiarity you can find in your own kitchen.

Probably one of the most "kid friendly" places I've ever eaten at, Saint's continues the warm, hospitable tradition started nearly 40 years ago.

Acknowledging there have been changes in the restaurant business, the family includes an open letter addressed to "friends" as part of its printed menu:

"We have considered many of these concepts and decided to stick with what we know," the open letter states. "Keep it simple, use the best products available, serve it right and do not lose sight of why we are still here. Enjoy yourself as our guest because we would not be here without you."

It's a message the St. Pierre family takes seriously, and one that makes you want to come back and eat here again and again.

411: Best known for its $2.50 hot dogs. Full dinners average $10.

Hours: Daily, 6 a.m.-9 p.m. Sometimes it closes earlier on Sunday nights, depending on business.

Extras:

Bestsellers $2.50 hot dogs Cuisine American/New, Family/Kids, Homestyle, American/Classic Meals Served Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Payment Method Visa, MasterCard Price Range Inexpensive Services Catering, Carry Out Website http://www.saintsrestaurant.net/ Wheelchair Access Yes