---

Kebra Negast
248 Sisson Ave.
Hartford

By MICHAEL GANNON

Hartford Courant

Published: 2/27/2005

Be honest: How many of you know there is such a thing as Rastafarian cuisine?

I certainly didn't. In fact, it seems most people do not, and when it comes to our palates, all but a few fear the unfamiliar. Judging by my frequent meals out, it seems that many diners prefer high-fat, high-salt meals that leave us feeling slightly nauseated, but mostly euphoric. Why take a chance on a dinner out, when there are so many sure bets to keep you contented?

That's why we have restaurant reviewers, or so I'd like to think, to take the chances for all of us. After sampling a dozen dishes from Kebra Nagast, I can guarantee there's nothing here to be afraid of.

Your apprehensions will be quashed as soon as you step through the door. This is without a doubt the most aromatic restaurant I've ever visited. The scent of ginger, thyme, curry and a host of other spices will set your stomach growling, and will offset the less-appetizing display of dishes, arranged cafeteria-style in steel warmers on the counter.

Unfailingly charming servers will walk you through the day's selection. Perhaps you'll choose the Mafe, a Senegalese stew of peanuts, onion, tomato and chili pepper; Gomen, a recipe of collard greens, okra and coconut milk that hails from Ethiopia; or an exceptional curried tofu scrambled with green onions and tomato. These one-pot dishes are scooped from their trays and placed around a bed of rice and beans. It ain't pretty, but it's really, really good.

National origins of the menu circle the globe: African, Caribbean, Indian, even a slice of arguably American dishes are all featured. What makes them Rastafarian is adherence to "I-tal'' doctrine: a belief that what enters your body should be as natural as possible. I-tal, in fact, comes from the word "vital'' with the first syllable replaced to signify the unity of the person with nature.

If that all sounds heavy-handed, consider the remarkable result: a cuisine that eschews additives, preservatives and chemicals, favors minimal or no use of salt and chooses organic produce whenever possible. That doesn't mean it's the Wild Oats of the culinary world -- the doctrine rubs elbows with the same Old Testament texts that fuel kosher dietary laws. This is not so surprising, considering one of the tenets of Rastafarian faith is that Rastas are descended from the Twelve Tribes of Israel.

Thus, you'll find no pork or shellfish on the menu. The Bible, never one to pull punches, calls them scavengers. In fact, you won't find any meat at all: Even fish are iffy, since fish that eat other fish are generally not considered I-tal. You will, however, find butterfish as an appetizer, as well as an escovitch snapper from Thursday to Saturday.

While these Jamaican favorites are welcome, a fine vegan meal can be had without them at Kebra Nagast. As a devoted carnivore, I considered some of the best to be those made with texturized vegetable protein, an unappetizing name for what is actually a meaty form of tofu. The chef prepares it as a complex curry, with barbecue sauce, and best of all, as a brown stew with red bell peppers, allspice, thyme and green onions.

I also enjoyed a pasta of tri-color rotini with a sun-dried tomato sauce and vegan cheese (another brilliant soy-based facsimile). Somehow, the prevalence of soy on the menu never gets tiresome. True to what health-foodies say, replacing meat with soy can leave you with a well-fed feeling of exuberant good health.

Other standouts include Jamaican patties made with soy, fish or ackee, Jamaica's national fruit, as well as a rotating selection of desserts that includes an inexpensive and delicious banana bread -- be sure to pick up an extra slice for breakfast. The best dish on the menu, conveniently, is the I-tal stew, a rich orange blend of coconut milk, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, beans and more. The list of ingredients seemed to change each time I asked, meaning that either the recipe changed, the recipe was a secret, or the server forgot what was thrown into the pot that morning.

It's that last possibility that serious diners might find most distressing, and it's symbolic of my chief complaint: The relaxed vibe sometimes translates as too casual. I like that the menu changes daily, but it's frustrating to have to request a rundown of available dishes every time you step up to the counter. I'm confident that everything in the recipes is fresh and wholesome, but that doesn't mean a partial listing of ingredients will always suffice. Rastafarian cuisine does not pretend to be upscale, but a bit more grace in display and plate-setting could go a long way to expand the restaurant's clientele.

In the meantime, I'll continue to visit Kebra Nagast on the nights when the butter- and beef-filled meals eaten for other restaurant reviews have started to wear me down. There's nothing like a little I-tal vitality to renew one's faith in food.

Hours: Mon.-Thu., 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays, 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

Extras:

Bestsellers Ital stew, a hearty mix of potato, beans and corn; sauteed bok choy and kale and brown stew, which is textured vegetable protein in brown sauce. Nagast vegan entrees Critic's Rating Cuisine Caribbean, Indian, Vegetarian, Other (Jamaican) Extras In keeping with the Rastafarian vibe, no alcohol is served. Daily fish specials Meals Served Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Late-night Parking Payment Method Reservations Only 4 tables available Services Catering, Private Parties, Carry Out Wheelchair Access Side entrance and restrooms accessible