March 2, 2011
Geronimo, 724 Canyon Road, 505-982-1500, geronimorestaurant.com
Dinner nightly 5:45-9:30 p.m.
Strolling by the windows of Santa Fe's top art galleries might seem reward enough for visiting Geronimo, on Canyon Road about a mile from the city center. But once there, you're blessed with a unique location, a beautiful 255-year-old adobe home with dining indoors and out under a covered porch, smart service honed over 18 years, and excellent food from executive chef Eric DiStefano (also of the famed Coyote Cafe) and Charles R. Thompson, the chef de cuisine.
While the menu's thrust is "global French Asian" with all the attendant mix of color, flavor and texture, there's still a sense of the rustic in a dish such as elk tenderloin accented with bacon and garlic mashed potatoes. It's nice that the restaurant gives proper due to poultry. Menu offerings include quail, chicken, duck and squab. A "sticky" duck salad pairs plush threads of meat with crispy shallot onion rings and a blood orange vinaigrette. The pan-roasted quail preens on a bed of brie and Parmesan cheese polenta.
Geronimo long has been a destination restaurant, yet the feeling is never self-important. You feel welcome and more than a bit pampered, which is why folks keep coming back.