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Panko Onion maki

Panko Onion maki: Vegetarian sushi belongs in the same place as vegetarian hot dogs and vegetarian cheeseburgers -- the garbage can, as far as I'm concerned. Why bother? That said, the Panko Onion at West Loop's Sushi Dokku (from the de cero and Grange Hall Burger Bar group) is the most interesting nonfish maki roll I can remember sampling. This is essentially fried onion rings and garlic aioli in futomaki sushi form, with sweet, creamy and crunchy notes all in one bite. The white onions have a dual breading of panko and tempura batter, then are stuffed in rice with avocados and red onions, with microgreens atop. The ponzu on the side is nontraditional too: mirin and soy, but also orange juice and a splash of Sprite. $8, Sushi Dokku, 823 W. Randolph St., 312-455-8238 — Kevin Pang E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune